Country: Italy

Date of birth: 04/07/1984

Lives in: Italy

Profession: alpinism


Matteo started climbing at the age of 12, on the small rocks surrounding his home town, Varese, with his dad. In 2006 he joined the group of “Ragni di Lecco” and thanks to that he had the opportunity to grow both as a mountaineer and as a man. In 2008 he graduated in Management Engineering and continued the studies attending a PhD until 2012, but without ever getting away from his true passion: alpinism. His favourite terrains are the biggest and most remotes walls in the planet, where the challenge and the adventure is already getting there and come back home. He likes to climb those mountains in free climbing, with little material and on high difficulties. He's truly in love with Patagonia, where he has been 10 times, but some other favourite destinations are Greenland, Pakistan, India and Baffin Island. Matteo likes to practice an essential, concrete, light mountaineering, which compares the man with the mountain on equal terms. In 2019 he published his first book "La via meno battuta" edited by Rizzoli, in which he tells the stories behind many big adventures and reflects on what the mountain taught him in all these years.

  • 2019 First ascent of the West face of Bhagirathi IV (6193 m), Indian Himalaya, alpine style and in a day
  • 2018 First ascent of Cerro Riso Patron Sur, Patagonia, Chile, expedition "by fair means" approaching with kayaks
  • 2017 First ascent alpine style of the East face of Cerro Murallon, Patagonia, Argentina
  • 2016 Expedition to Baffin Island, 7 new routes
  • 2016 First repetition of the "Ragni route" on Fitz Roy's East face, Patagonia, Argentina
  • 2016 third "by fair means" ascent of the South-East ridge of Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina
  • 2014 expedition "by fair means" to Shark Tooth, Greenland, 400 km by kayak, 80 km by foot and 1000 meters of first ascent on free climbing
  • 2013 First ascent of Uli Biaho Tower (6109 m) South West face, Pakistan
  • 2013 First ascent of the West Face of Torre Egger, Patagonia, Argentina
  • 2012 First italian free ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, for the route "freerider"
  • 20 new hard routes in the Alps opened ground up and free climbed until the grade of 8b
  • Several repetitions of routes in traditional style until the grade of 8b+