Country: Italy

Date of birth: 21/12/1977

Lives in: Valtournanche

Profession: Alpinist


Hervé Barmasse is a mountaineer, and mountain films director. Born in Aosta on December 21th1977 in a family with a long tradition and passion for mountains. Alpine guide of the Matterhorn for four generations, his name is linked to important ascents carried out all over the world. On his ‘home mountain’, the Matterhorn, among new, first winter and solitary first routes, is the mountaineer who has made the most exploits. On May 2017 he became the protagonist of an exemplary climb in the Himalayas, climbing in alpine style the South face of Shisha Pangma (8027 m) in just 13 hours. ‘La montagna dentro’, published by Laterza, is his first literary effort. "Some time ago I said that mountaineering had failed, but today I say no, it is not true, because there are young people like Hervé Barmasse. Young people like him defend the values of traditional mountaineering. Some time ago I said that there will be no more young people advocating the culture of mountaineering, but today I say no, they are still there” (Reinhold Messner).

  • 2017 Tibet - Shisha Pangma: south face
  • 2016 Nepal - Amphu Lapcha peak
  • 2014 Grandes Murailles - New route «Bon Noel»
  • 2013 Patagonia - Two untuched peaks and a first winter ascent
  • 2012 Pakistan - Three untouched peaks and the attempt to the North face of Ogre
  • 2011 Monte Rosa - New route “Viaggio nella memoria”
  • 2011 Matterhorn - Solitary first ascent route on Picco Muzio
  • 2010 Matterhorn - New route on the south face “Il Couloir Barmasse”
  • 2008 Pakistan - First ascent “Bekka Brakai Chhok”
  • 2008 Patagonia - First ascent west face of Cerro Piergiorgio
  • 2007 Matterhorn - First solo ascent “Spigolo dei Fiori”
  • 2007 Matterhorn - First solo ascent face south
  • 2006 Patagonia - Cerro San Lorenzo new route “Caffé Cortado”
  • 2005 Matterhorn - First solo ascent “Deffeyes”
  • 2005 Grandes Murailles - New route “Goulotte Ammazza Geko”
  • 2004 Pakistan - Route “The balck sheeps”
  • 2004 Matterhorn - First winter ascent “Padre Pio Prega per tutti”
  • 2002 Matterhorn - First solo ascent route “Casarotto Grassi”
  • 2001 western Breithorn - New route on west face “La via del friend”
  • 2000 Matterhorn - New route “Per Nio”